In February of 1997, Johnny Carr and I traveled to Moscow to attend the “Russian Premiere” of a children’s musical we had co-written. We were in Moscow for about a week – and were guests of the private school that hosted the premiere. While there, we had the unique experience of staying in the homes of two of the teachers, and also ate authentic Russian “home cooking” in a different home each night.
In addition to feeding us and taking care of our lodging and transportation, the principal planned a sight-seeing excursions for us each day. During that whirlwind week we were able to experience an opera at the world-renowned Bolshoi Theatre, go to a performance at the Moscow State Circus, tour the amazing Tretyakov Art Gallery, attend two church services, go to a craft market, and tour Red Square.
I was not all that excited about going to Red Square. It was very, very cold and I knew we would have to do a lot of walking on ice-covered streets and walks. I expected Red Square to be nothing more than a monument to Communism – cold and bleak, much like the weather. I had grown up seeing TV clips of Russian soldiers marching goose-step in military precision through Red Square past the reviewing stand of Nikita Khrushchev or Leonid Brezhnev. When the driver dropped us off I almost wished we had asked him just to drive around for fifteen minutes or so and then come back and pick us up!
The multi-colored “onion” domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral stood out in stark contrast to the rest of the landscape, which was muted, somewhat, by clouds that hugged the earth, bringing a constant flurry of snow.
When Johnny and I got to the main entrance we had to go through a military checkpoint, with less-than-friendly guards! By the time we got into Red Square the wind chill had to have been several degrees below zero. Johnny mentioned that a man he had met on an earlier trip to Moscow wanted to meet us there and be our “tour guide.” And before long, he came running up, apologizing for being late. Johnny introduced me, and off we went. In addition to speaking English, our guide was also a Christian, so he immediately began sharing things about the rich religious heritage that was a part of Red Square. Pointing to what looked like the main entrance to Red Square, he said, “Don, that is the “Spassky Gate” – and “Spassky” means “Savior.” He shared that when the square was first built it was called “Red Square” because, at the time, the Russian word for “red” also meant “beautiful” or “happy.” And for all of my life I thought the “Red” in Red Square was the “code word” for Communism. He pointed out other markers in the gates and walls that were of spiritual significance.
Before long, we began touring three other lesser-known, but important, cathedrals and were amazed at the beauty and incredible biblical symbolism in each. There were frescoes dating back to the 1500s and multi-level tiers of paintings. Even every square inch on the columns had been painted, and they, too, had spiritual and historical meaning. I sensed God’s presence in these ancient cathedrals. We were indeed on holy ground.
It was in the Assumption Cathedral that I gained a new understanding about the meaning of Christmas. In the narthex of this building there was a large glass case with displays of icons, paintings, and other items of historical significance. One of the first was a beautiful painting of the crucifixion highlighted in gold leaf. However, around this beautiful “icon” was a frame that looked like it was made from barn wood – so unlike any of the other displays. Our guide told us that, according to legend, the wood around that painting came from the manger in which Jesus was born – and had been preserved by Luke, who gives us the most detailed account of that first Christmas night. Since the Russian Orthodox Church was formed in 325, the logistics of passing down wood from the manger would indeed have been possible.
Whether the legend is true or not makes no difference. What is important is the truth that I learned that cold day in Moscow: that Christmas is a frame around the greater picture: the picture of the God’s Son, our Savior, dying on the cross for our sins.
We spend so much time celebrating Christmas – as we should – because without the manger there would be no cross. But may we always remember that Christmas is a simply a “frame” around the rest of the story.
